"With nap" means the fabric has a direction, so every pattern piece must be cut facing the same way. That usually takes more fabric than a "without nap" layout, where pieces can be flipped and nested. Use the "with nap" yardage on the envelope or PDF for velvet, corduroy, fleece, faux fur and one-way prints.
Which fabrics need a nap layout?
- Pile fabrics: velvet, velveteen, corduroy, faux fur, fleece
- Brushed or napped fabrics: flannel, some wools
- Fabrics that look different from different directions: satin, some shiny knits
- One-way prints, such as florals with upright stems, and some plaids or stripes
To check, run your hand along the length of the fabric, then hold a cut edge up in the light and turn it 180 degrees. If the shade or feel changes, treat it as "with nap."
How much extra fabric?
The pattern tells you. Look at the yardage chart for your view, size and fabric width, and find the "with nap" column or line. Because the figure depends on the pieces, the width and your size, it's more reliable than any universal number.
If the pattern gives only one figure, or you're adapting a design, lay the pieces out on paper at your fabric's width, all pointing the same way, and measure the length. As a loose rule of thumb (not from any pattern company), add a little extra for a simple design and more for one with many pieces or a full skirt. Our fabric requirements guide walks through the layout method.
Nap up or nap down?
| Direction | Look | Tradeoff |
|---|---|---|
| Nap up (against the smooth stroke) | Richer, deeper color on velvet and cord | Can show wear and marks more |
| Nap down (with the smooth stroke) | Lighter, smoother, often silkier | Color looks paler |
Faux fur is usually cut with the pile running down. Whichever you pick, be consistent across the whole garment, including facings, pockets and collars. Mark the direction on the wrong side of each piece with chalk or tape as you cut.
Tradeoffs to know
- Buying the extra costs more, but a mismatched sleeve is a hard mistake to hide.
- A single-layer layout can use more fabric than a folded one. Some nap layouts fold the fabric crosswise instead, so follow the pattern's diagram.
- If your fabric has no nap, you can use the "without nap" figure and save money. Be sure first, because shading can be subtle on sateens and some knits.
Confirm yardage details with the pattern company's official site or current pattern listing, as charts can be updated.
Related
For more on the envelope and chart, see how to read sewing pattern instructions and how to choose and read a sewing pattern.