Running short of fabric halfway through cutting is a miserable feeling. Buying far too much is a quieter kind of waste. The good news is that the pattern does most of the work for you, as long as you know where to look and which adjustments it doesn't account for.
Start with the pattern's yardage chart
Nearly every commercial pattern has a fabric chart on the envelope back or in the PDF's first pages. It's the starting point, and it's built from a tested layout. If you're new to the envelope, our guide to reading envelope info, symbols and markings covers the rest of what's printed there.
Find your row and column
- Pick your view. Different views (sleeve lengths, skirt lengths, collars) often need different amounts.
- Find your size. If you're between sizes or blending them, use the larger size's number. If you're unsure how to choose, see size charts and ease explained.
- Match your fabric width. Charts list common widths. A narrower bolt usually needs noticeably more length, because pieces that sat side by side on wide fabric must now sit end to end.
- Check "with nap" or "without nap." Directional fabrics need extra. Our page on what "with nap" means and how much extra you need goes into detail.
- Add up every component. Main fabric, contrast, lining and interfacing are listed separately.
Check you're reading the right chart
Patterns written for knits often list stretch requirements and different yardage than woven versions. If the pattern isn't clear, here's how to tell whether it's meant for knit or woven. Also confirm whether the chart assumes folded fabric or a single layer, since the notes usually say.
Adjustments the chart doesn't know about
The chart assumes you sew the pattern as drafted. Your changes aren't included.
- Lengthening. Adding length to a dress, skirt, or trousers adds yardage. Multiply the added length by the number of times that piece is cut along the length of fabric, then add that amount.
- Larger size grading or wide-hip adjustments. These can push pieces past the layout the chart was based on.
- Pattern matching. Stripes, plaids and large prints need extra so pieces can line up at seams. Many sewists add at least one extra repeat of the pattern, and more for complex matching. There's no universal figure, so check the fabric's repeat size.
- Shrinkage. If you'll pre-wash, you're buying fabric that will get smaller. Natural fibers like cotton and linen are the usual concern. Check the bolt's care notes, or test-wash a swatch.
- Seam allowances. Most commercial patterns include them, but some indie and PDF patterns don't. Confirm with this seam allowance guide, because missing allowances change your layout.
When the chart is missing or doesn't fit your plan
Some indie patterns skip yardage, or you may be working with a remnant or an unusual width. In that case, do a paper layout:
- Print or cut out all the pattern pieces, including linings and facings.
- Mark a rectangle on the floor or a table with tape, using your fabric width. Fold it if the pattern calls for fabric folded.
- Arrange the pieces with grainlines parallel to the selvage. Fold-line pieces go on the fold.
- Flip directional pieces correctly, and respect any nap direction.
- Measure the length used, then add a margin for mistakes.
This takes some time, but it's the most reliable way to avoid guessing. The tradeoff is that it only works once you have the full set of pieces, so it's not a way to shop before buying the pattern.
How much extra should you buy?
A small cushion makes sense for most projects. How much depends on how costly a mistake would be. Here's a quick comparison:
| Situation | Extra to consider | Tradeoff |
|---|---|---|
| Plain, stable woven, simple pattern | A small margin for straightening the ends and shrinkage | Little risk, so a larger cushion is often unnecessary |
| Napped, shiny or one-way print | Follow the "with nap" chart | Costs more, but cutting pieces in mixed directions shows in the finished garment |
| Stripes, plaids, large repeats | At least an extra repeat, possibly more | Higher cost and some waste, but mismatched seams are hard to unsee |
| Slippery or stretchy fabric | A bit more for off-grain cutting and recuts | More fabric to buy, but these fabrics are less forgiving to cut |
| Fabric you can't reorder | A larger cushion, or buy the full bolt end if available | May leave leftovers, but you avoid dye-lot mismatches |
Prices and available widths vary by shop, so confirm current details with the seller before you buy.
Before you cut, test the fit
Yardage is only as accurate as your size choice and adjustments. If you plan major changes, a trial garment can show what you need before you commit expensive fabric. Our answer on whether you need a muslin weighs the tradeoffs, and the review of pattern fitting tools and books compares resources that can help with fit changes. If you're choosing the pattern itself, how to choose and read a sewing pattern is a good companion.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using the wrong width column. It's the most common error, and it can cost you a lot of yardage.
- Forgetting lining and interfacing. They're easy to overlook until you're at the counter.
- Treating the chart as a guarantee. It's a tested estimate for the pattern as drafted, not for your changes or fabric quirks.
- Skipping the difficulty check. Trickier patterns may use more specialty fabric or more careful layouts. See what difficulty ratings really mean.
If your pieces don't fit the layout or the instructions seem off, check fixing common pattern problems. A poorly drafted pattern can also throw off yardage, which is one reason to check the signs of a well-drafted pattern before buying.
A simple summary
Use the chart for your view, size and fabric width. Add for nap, matching, shrinkage and any length you've added. When there's no chart, lay out the pieces on paper. Buy a modest cushion, and a larger one when the fabric is pricey, hard to replace, or unforgiving to cut. You'll still sometimes end up with leftovers, but that beats running out.