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Pattern Printing, Storage & Workflow

How to Print and Assemble PDF Sewing Patterns: Test Square, Page Layout and Taping

PDF patterns are a bargain in time and shipping, but they ask you to be the print shop. The process is simple once you know the few places it goes wrong. T

By the Bobbin & Bias Editorial TeamPublished October 16, 20266 min read

PDF patterns are a bargain in time and shipping, but they ask you to be the print shop. The process is simple once you know the few places it goes wrong. This guide covers the test square, the page layout and the taping, in the order you will actually do them. It is one part of our wider guide to pattern printing, storage and workflow.

Before you print anything

Open the instructions first

Most designers put the printing notes on the first pages. Look for three things:

Use a current PDF reader

Use Adobe Acrobat Reader or another full PDF reader rather than a browser preview. Browser viewers are more likely to apply "fit to page" scaling or ignore layers. That is one of the most common causes of a wrong-size print, and we cover it in why a PDF pattern prints at the wrong size.

Step 1: Print the test square first

The test square is the one page you should never skip. It is usually on page one, or sits on a page with the layout guide.

  1. Open the print dialog and set scaling to Actual size or 100%. Avoid "Fit," "Shrink to printable area" and "Scale to fit."
  2. Print only the test square page.
  3. Measure the square with a ruler, not a tape measure. Tape measures stretch and shift at the hook end.
  4. Compare it to the stated size on the page. Use the printed dimension as written, because designers use different sizes.

If it's off by even a few millimetres, stop and fix your settings. Small errors add up across a full pattern, and a bodice that is 2% small is an annoying surprise after you've cut the fabric. Check your printer's own scaling options as well as the PDF viewer's, since some printer drivers add margins or resize quietly.

Step 2: Read the page layout guide

The layout guide is a small map showing how the pages fit together. It usually shows a grid of rectangles numbered by row and column (A1, A2, B1 and so on).

Step 3: Trim, then tape

Each page has alignment marks, usually diamonds, crosses or dashed lines, that show how it joins its neighbours. How you remove the margins is a matter of preference and tradeoffs:

MethodGood forTradeoffs
Trim margins, butt edges, tapeFlat, tidy seams that are easy to traceEasy to cut into the pattern if you trim carelessly; slower upfront
Fold margin back, overlap, tapeFast, and good when you only need to fold a margin lineFold lines can add bulk, and the edges may be less accurate if folded off the line
Trim one side only (for example, right and bottom edges)Fewer cuts, and you can overlap onto the next pageYou need to follow the designer's trimming instructions carefully

Follow the designer's instructions if they give a trimming method, since their marks are built around it.

Taping steps

  1. Start at the top-left page and work across each row, then add the next row.
  2. Match the alignment marks exactly. Match the lines of the pattern, not the paper edges, because paper edges can be slightly off.
  3. Tape along the join on one side, then check the alignment before you tape the rest.
  4. Use a ruler or straight edge to check that long lines, such as grainlines and hems, run straight across the pages.
  5. Do a final measure on a known dimension, such as a seam length or a printed scale box, if the pattern has one.

Tape or glue?

Clear tape is quick, and you can reposition it. Glue stick is flatter and good if you plan to trace, but it is less forgiving if you misalign a page. Whatever you use, tape the joins along the whole edge so pages don't peel at the corners. Avoid tape across the lines you need to trace, as it can make the pen skip.

Home printing vs. copy shop

Home printing gives you immediate access and no extra fees, but it takes time to tape and the file needs your printer to cooperate. A copy shop file (when the designer provides one) removes the taping, but you'll need to confirm the cost and turnaround with the shop and check the file's paper size. Neither option is better in every case, so the right choice depends on the pattern size and how often you print.

If you print patterns often, the printer you use affects ink, toner and fiddly margin behaviour. See Best Printers for PDF Sewing Patterns: Laser vs Inkjet vs Ink Tank for a side-by-side comparison, and check current details on each manufacturer's official site before buying.

After assembly: trace or cut?

Once your pattern is taped together you can cut your size directly, or trace it onto another paper so you keep the full-size master. Tracing costs a little time but protects you if you grade between sizes or want to make the pattern again. Our guide to tracing and copying sewing patterns without cutting the original walks through it, and Best Tracing Paper and Pattern Paper Reviewed compares the papers you might use.

Storing what you've made

An assembled pattern is bulky. Fold it along the sheet lines, put it in a labelled envelope, and keep the digital file safe so you can reprint. For physical options, see Best Sewing Pattern Storage Solutions Reviewed. For the digital side, How to Organize a Digital Sewing Pattern Library covers file naming, folders and backups.

Quick checklist

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